Our Air BnB apartment is a two room 2nd floor apartment in this scenic neighborhood between Salerno and Amalfi. The building is old, I’m guessing early 1900’s: 16 foot high arched ceilings, non-square corners. It may have a military past, perhaps an ammo dump. The town today is really a village, close-nit and friendly. In July and August it explodes with tourists, we are told. A fine beach, boats to rent, villas and hillside hotels, all with amazing views. Lots of restaurants, bars and gelato shops with maybe half still open this time of year. We get to be here with no tourists and the village relaxed.
Today I was definitely feeling better so we went out for a walk and lunch. It was bright, sunny and windy. The town had just local folks who have been very kindly toward us. Last night we arrived here from the train station by taxi and the taxi driver couldn’t find the address. Google maps said the apartment was a block away. But within 5 minutes of stepping out of the taxi a kind gentleman who had no English asked for the address and went off in pursuit. He came back puzzled, but when he saw my paperwork that Ciro was the Air BnB host, he smiled, “Oh, Ciro!” (pronounced Cheer-o) and immediately called him up. In two minutes we were at the apartment.
We couldn’t seem to find a restaurant open, and with customers in it, and with a posted menu or one we thought was reasonably priced for the off season, so disappointed, we headed toward the tiny grocery store and something to eat. My appetite is back! And as we approached the store we saw the kindly man from the night before. He was putting restaurant outdoor dining patio equipment away. We stopped in front of a small restaurant. He asked if we wanted pizza or some lunch, and opened the door of that very restaurant! He was the owner, and made me this margerita pizza (15″ diameter, about $5) and his wife made us bruschetta and Mei Li Spaghetti con Vongole. Awesome! We told the wife (whose English is quite good) how special her husband is. She smiled. She knew. She said we all just need to be generous with each other.
The pizza is really really good. Sorry I didn’t photograph the $4 bruschetta. We were too busy eating it. That was pretty much our day. I took it easy the rest of the day. Ciao!